I find it helps to visualize life without stuff or services. Pick one thing at a time. It does not matter if it is a necessity or superfluous. I like to go through this mental exercise to see where I can save money. What would life be like without cable TV? What would life be like without the house I am living in now? Without certain members of my family? Without pets? Without the car I drive? What if we were a one car family? Or a no car family? I know this seems a little gloomy but in the end you will think of savings that you would not have thought of in your current state of mind. Even if it is an incremental decrease in your spending, It all adds up. Collectively this will save you quite a bit of cash. Here is a list of things I have come up with to save more.
Trade in your smartphone for an ipod touch and a prepaid cell phone. This trick saves me $40-$50 a month. Dump your cable for watching shows online. Cut out those coffees at Starbucks and make your own. Pack a lunch. Stay away from the snack machines by having your own healthy snacks in your desk/bag. Try to buy used by going to garage sales, thrift stores, craigslist, the reuse center, and estate sales. Keep your car longer. Trade down to more basic transport. Or dump your car for bus and bike. Is your car worth enough to maintain full insurance coverage.
I would love to hear what you all do to be more frugal. Just leave a post in the comments section of my blog. which can be found at http://fettlersfinancial.blogspot.com/
Feel free to recommend this blog to your friends and family. Encourage them to read the first set of posts so they will have a firm foundation in personal finance. The more the merrier!
Monday, May 21, 2012
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Rebalancing tips
So, I'm in the middle of a rebalance and thought of a couple things to share. I like to rebalance twice a year. Once in May and once in October. I find that there is calendar volatility related to summer. Maybe folks take there hands off the proverbial tiller for a summer vacation. I used to use my birthday but since it came in the summer I always seemed late to party when it came to the "protection" that rebalancing provides.
My online brokerage that services my Roth/IRAs has different monthly pricing structures. Ranging from [No monthly fee for $4 purchases & $9.95 sales. Or $12 monthly fee for 12-$1 purchases & $7.95 sales] I always chose the "Free" account except for the months that I rebalance. That saves me $80 a year!
I only purchase 1 investment per month when it comes to my monthly autopilot ROTH IRA savings. This keeps my normal monthly fee down to $4. I purchase my way towards balance by changing what that one investment is depending on my portfolios needs.
Remember to Rebalance across all of your accounts!
My online brokerage that services my Roth/IRAs has different monthly pricing structures. Ranging from [No monthly fee for $4 purchases & $9.95 sales. Or $12 monthly fee for 12-$1 purchases & $7.95 sales] I always chose the "Free" account except for the months that I rebalance. That saves me $80 a year!
I only purchase 1 investment per month when it comes to my monthly autopilot ROTH IRA savings. This keeps my normal monthly fee down to $4. I purchase my way towards balance by changing what that one investment is depending on my portfolios needs.
Remember to Rebalance across all of your accounts!
Saturday, May 5, 2012
22. When to pay for professional help.
22. When to pay for professional help.
This can be a tricky decision. You may always feel that you need professional help. If you understood most of "Anyone's financial plan" you can manage your own portfolio. Where that breaks down for me is during retirement. Later in life I might not have the mental capacity, logic skills, or brain power to manage my portfolio. I will probably enlist a Certified Financial Planner (They must be certified!) to maintain my Bond/CD ladders and implement my retirement plan. I'll handle it for 5-10 years and then hand it over to the CFP Probably around age 70. There will be a lot of vetting and I will be very involved until I physically can not attend meetings.
Since I will probably be paying 1% of my portfolio for this service, the later in life I start using a CFP the cheaper it will be. I want that 1% to compound and grow for as long as possible. Don't wait too long though. You may lose the capacity to communicate your plan or develop a relationship with your CFP.
There are different types of CFPs.
http://www.napfa.org/
http://www.finra.org/Investors/ToolsCalculators/BrokerCheck/
http://www.cfp.net/
http://www.nasaa.org/
http://www.naic.org/
http://www.sec.gov/
The WSJ had a great article on picking a CFP.
http://guides.wsj.com/personal-finance/managing-your-money/how-to-choose-a-financial-planner/
That's it for my "Anyone's financial plan" series. I hope you found the information useful and easily digested. Refer back to the series as needed and refer your friends and relatives to the blog. Insist they start from the beginning. From here on my blog will be more topical and probably have shorter posts more often. I have been stock piling ideas for posts but have had to hold off until the foundation of financial planning was done. I felt that until we had that foundation in place, my posts would have no context.
Source
http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2007/04/24/when-and-how-do-you-hire-a-financial-planner/
This can be a tricky decision. You may always feel that you need professional help. If you understood most of "Anyone's financial plan" you can manage your own portfolio. Where that breaks down for me is during retirement. Later in life I might not have the mental capacity, logic skills, or brain power to manage my portfolio. I will probably enlist a Certified Financial Planner (They must be certified!) to maintain my Bond/CD ladders and implement my retirement plan. I'll handle it for 5-10 years and then hand it over to the CFP Probably around age 70. There will be a lot of vetting and I will be very involved until I physically can not attend meetings.
Since I will probably be paying 1% of my portfolio for this service, the later in life I start using a CFP the cheaper it will be. I want that 1% to compound and grow for as long as possible. Don't wait too long though. You may lose the capacity to communicate your plan or develop a relationship with your CFP.
There are different types of CFPs.
- Fee only CFP - paid by the hour. Good for a check up but may not fit the bill for long term management.
- CFP on retainer - Good for ongoing help.
- CFP that takes a regular percentage of your portfolio. Sometimes these folks have a conflict of interest. The more money they make you (and expose you to risk) the more he or she makes.
http://www.napfa.org/
http://www.finra.org/Investors/ToolsCalculators/BrokerCheck/
http://www.cfp.net/
http://www.nasaa.org/
http://www.naic.org/
http://www.sec.gov/
The WSJ had a great article on picking a CFP.
http://guides.wsj.com/personal-finance/managing-your-money/how-to-choose-a-financial-planner/
That's it for my "Anyone's financial plan" series. I hope you found the information useful and easily digested. Refer back to the series as needed and refer your friends and relatives to the blog. Insist they start from the beginning. From here on my blog will be more topical and probably have shorter posts more often. I have been stock piling ideas for posts but have had to hold off until the foundation of financial planning was done. I felt that until we had that foundation in place, my posts would have no context.
Source
http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2007/04/24/when-and-how-do-you-hire-a-financial-planner/
Thursday, May 3, 2012
21. Mandatory distributions at age 70.5
21. Mandatory distributions at age 70.5
With a traditional IRA or ANY type of 401k/403b you must take "Required minimum distributions"or RMDs annually. You have until April 1 of the year that follows the year you turn 70.5 to start taking RMDs. If you do not take your RMD you will pay a 50% penalty. That's losing half of your RMD to the IRS. DON'T DO IT! To calculate your own RMD the following link and find the section labeled "How is the amount of the RMD calculated?"
The money you have saved in your Roth IRA is exempt from this rule. This is where Roth IRAs really shine. The money in your Roth IRA can grow tax differed your whole life. This helps make your portfolio last longer and hopefully leaving more money to your heirs. If you have a Roth 401k/403b you should roll it into a Roth IRA before you hit 70.5. This will shelter that portion from RMDs.
There is one way to keep your RMD from pushing you into a higher tax bracket. You can have your RMD transferred directly to a charity. This then becomes a tax deduction negating your extra income. If you are still working you do not have to take an RMD from your 401k/403b. You will still have to take RMDs from a traditional IRA while still working. You do not have to spend it though. You can just reinvest the money in a taxable account.
From the IRS website-
When a retirement plan account owner or IRA owner dies before RMDs have begun, different RMD rules apply to the beneficiary of the account or IRA. Generally, the entire amount of the owner’s benefit must be distributed to the beneficiary who is an individual either (1) within 5 years of the owner’s death, or (2) over the life of the beneficiary starting no later than one year following the owner’s death.
Sources
http://www.bankrate.com/brm/itax/tips/20030325a1.asp
http://www.irs.gov/retirement/article/0,,id=96989,00.html
With a traditional IRA or ANY type of 401k/403b you must take "Required minimum distributions"or RMDs annually. You have until April 1 of the year that follows the year you turn 70.5 to start taking RMDs. If you do not take your RMD you will pay a 50% penalty. That's losing half of your RMD to the IRS. DON'T DO IT! To calculate your own RMD the following link and find the section labeled "How is the amount of the RMD calculated?"
The money you have saved in your Roth IRA is exempt from this rule. This is where Roth IRAs really shine. The money in your Roth IRA can grow tax differed your whole life. This helps make your portfolio last longer and hopefully leaving more money to your heirs. If you have a Roth 401k/403b you should roll it into a Roth IRA before you hit 70.5. This will shelter that portion from RMDs.
There is one way to keep your RMD from pushing you into a higher tax bracket. You can have your RMD transferred directly to a charity. This then becomes a tax deduction negating your extra income. If you are still working you do not have to take an RMD from your 401k/403b. You will still have to take RMDs from a traditional IRA while still working. You do not have to spend it though. You can just reinvest the money in a taxable account.
From the IRS website-
When a retirement plan account owner or IRA owner dies before RMDs have begun, different RMD rules apply to the beneficiary of the account or IRA. Generally, the entire amount of the owner’s benefit must be distributed to the beneficiary who is an individual either (1) within 5 years of the owner’s death, or (2) over the life of the beneficiary starting no later than one year following the owner’s death.
Sources
http://www.bankrate.com/brm/itax/tips/20030325a1.asp
http://www.irs.gov/retirement/article/0,,id=96989,00.html
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